Bootlegs have been poking fun at companies and culture since forever. In the 1800s, unauthorised copies of Charles Dickens’ novels were published, leaving the author asking, “Please sir, I want some credit.”

In the 1980s, Dapper Dan took fake Gucci and made it a Harlem institution, while in the 90s Aditoff was ripping off adidas, Krappa took on Kappa and Le Shark was nipping at the toes of Lacoste. Today, GalXBoy in South Africa is redefining streetwear by becoming the brands it emulates, all on its own terms.

Brands used to hunt down these renegades. Not anymore. They’ve realised that kicking bootleggers out of the party isn’t just pointless, it’s counterproductive. Instead of slapping cease-and-desist orders on anyone with a flair for DIY branding, these bootleggers are being celebrated, authenticated and monetised.